Concepción

During the last weekend of June, I met up with a group of other US volunteers in Concepción. Many of us had a 4-day weekend due to the primary elections (which were held on a Sunday), and decided that it would be a nice opportunity to reunite (several of us had not seen each other since our program orientation in March) and celebrate the 4th of July American-style. In addition, of course, to exploring more of this beautiful country!

During elections in Chile, the majority of voting polls are located in the public schools of a city. Therefore, classes are canceled on the days surrounding the elections, in order to set things up prior to the weekend and then to clean the building afterward...This meant that classes at my liceo ended early on Thursday and were canceled for Friday and the following Monday. Everything was locked up and the computers and printers in the sala de profesores were taken out of the building completely. In one of the hallways, a stack of mattresses laid against the wall. Supposedly the building needed to be prepared on Friday, so that the carabineros (police) could keep guard of the building on Saturday...

I expressed my annoyance with the excessiveness of the preparations involved. I assumed that like most "official" things in Chile, it was just an unnecessary over-complication of a process that could be made much more efficient. That's when my host mom told me that people are still really uncomfortable during elections....since Pinochet. Sometimes people are shady and sometimes people fight. Also, due to the poverty in our area, theft is not uncommon.

That put things into perspective.

So...taking advantage of the occasion, I hopped on the early morning bus that passed through my town. The same bus that two volunteers south of me were on. They slept through the majority of the nearly 7 hour journey, while I conversed with the woman seated beside me. At one of the stops, Kiera (one of the volunteers I was with) and I got off the bus to buy some crackers. We were almost left behind.

When we arrived in Concepción, Nick (the volunteer there) and his host mom picked us up and drove us to the apartment where we stayed for the weekend.  That evening we ate Thai food and drank borgoña (red wine with ripe strawberries and sugar) at Café Neruda, a tiny bar with a really chill and eclectic vibe.

While the weather cooperated, we walked around the campus of the Universidad de Concepción (the most recognized of the universities in Conce) and visited the mural inside the art building, before finding our way back to base where we enjoyed each other's company for the rest of the night.

Before I continue, I must take a moment to emphasize the magnificence of this mural, commissioned by Mexican artist Jorge González Camarena. It's huge and it's breath-taking. Named "Presencia de América Latina," it symbolizes the creation of Latin America and celebrates the unity and brotherhood among all the nations.

Check out the following links to see the painting and to learn more about the symbolism behind the images:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Presencia_de_Am%C3%A9rica_Latina

http://www2.udec.cl/pinacoteca/index-2.html

http://www.flickr.com/photos/arteurbano/5162842394/
 

The following day, several other volunteers met up with us. We explored the plaza and an old abandoned theater among other things. Then we huddled, created a game plan, and divided into teams in order to shop efficiently in the Jumbo (a huge super market chain in Chile...which is overwhelming compared to the tiny stores we small-town residents are accustomed to).

Then the 4th of July festivities commenced. We had an asado that included grilled vegetables and pineapple, chips, guacamole, crackers, cheese, fruit, so many things...We listened to music and played games and made s'mores. We made s'mores! And in the morning, after a cold night sleeping on the floor (there were 10 of us crammed into a tiny apartment), we made brunch. It was marvelous.

 (Alex and Nick grillin' and chillin')

(Eunice, girl Alex, Kiera, and Dominique ready to play American games) 

 (Sierra roasting marshmallows on the "fire")

(Ainsley and I beyond thrilled to finally get s'mores in this place) 

(Proud to be an American) 

(the gang along for the ride)

On Sunday afternoon, Nick led us to the micro (city bus) that would take us into town and closer to the bus terminal. He hugged us all and waved nostalgically as the bus pulled away. And a man on the bus began playing his guitar and singing a song about the struggles that innocent people are forced to overcome each day. "Sobreviviendo." It was raw and it was beautiful. It perfectly captured the sentiment of the moment.

When we got to the bus station, we struggled to find tickets to get home. Eventually, after talking to people at literally every window (there are at least 20 different bus lines to take, traveling throughout the country), we found a round-about way to get home. Requiring us to wait several hours and then transferring bus stations at one point, I finally arrived in Loncoche at 3:45AM the following morning. Besides physical exhaustion, I felt guilty because my host mom and neighbor insisted on picking me up from the bus station. I'm sure I would have survived the 6 blocks between my house and the bus terminal, but as all Chilean adults insist, Chile is full of hoodlums...

I thoroughly enjoyed spending time with my friends that weekend, but more importantly, I made a realization about my future travel plans. I have been taking my homeland for granted. The United States is filled with so many treasures and I have yet to see most of them. I am going to make this a priority, especially now that I have friends located across the nation. When I return, I will make it my mission to explore and embrace my own country.




*Photos taken by Nicole...I didn't have my camera out.

   

We Tripantü

What is We Tripantü?

We Tripantü = la nueva salida del sol  (Mapuche New Year)

On June 24th, my school celebrated We Tripantü, the Mapuche New Year. There were displays placed in the hallways with artwork and traditional items and there was an acto (assembly) in the afternoon.

It was well planned and well received by all. I thoroughly enjoyed learning more about the Mapuche culture and its traditions. It was like museum day in middle school!

Who are the Mapuche?

Mapuche = people of the earth (in Mapundungun, the native language)

The Mapuche are an ancient indigenous civilization that still exists today in Southern Chile. They have a strong history of defending and fighting for their independence. They lived primarily in the fertile valley regions of Chile, south of the Bío Bío River (aka where I live in Region IX). Work distribution among clans was evenly distributed, and men and women alike had important roles. They were hunters and gatherers, and the dishes they created are still common in the region today.

The Mapuche lived in small groups, which was a blessing and a curse. The physical separation among the people proved to be a major aid in their defenses against the Spaniards during the time of the Inquisition; however, this separation also prevented them from developing and progressing further as a civilization. The conflict between the Mapuche and the Spaniards lasted over 300 years!

Today, the Mapuche make up approximately 4% of the Chilean population, although, the majority of Chileans have some Mapuche ancestry (the creation of the Chilean race was a mix of Spanish and Mapuche blood….although today there is actually a huge Western European influence, especially German in the South).

There remains a huge political struggle for the Mapuche in Chile. The Mapuche want to maintain their own land, but as they continue to lose it, they are forced to live in impoverished conditions. There is also an internal struggle in many Mapuche people as they try to preserve their ancient rituals and traditions in a society that is constantly changing and progressing.

Society’s view on the Mapuche people is very divided, depending on the area in which you go. Where I live, for example, the people are very proud of their connection to the Mapuche. In other areas, even areas nearby, however, people marginalize the Mapuche and view them as a lazy culture. For this reason, the term “Mapuche” when referring to an individual rather than to the ancient civilization as a whole, is a very sensitive one....I personally see many similarities to the same marginalization that exists for the Native Americans living in the United States (the difference being how well-known the struggle is throughout general society).    

In the South of Chile, Mapuche influence can be seen everywhere. The names of many cities are actually words in Mapundungun (the name of my home city, Loncoche, means “head of a man” in Mapundungun) and there are signs in some places that are written in Spanish and Mapundungun (near Temuco…not everywhere).

In terms of cultural artifacts, the Mapuche are commonly recognized for their handcrafted silver jewelry, their wooden carvings, and their wool goods (especially ponchos and blankets in natural colors rather than bright dyes). Everything they create has designs that signify important values they hold. Nothing they do is unintentional.

Below are a few photos and videos that I took at the acto. The director took photos of the displays in the hallways, but I do not currently have access to those...

(There are lots of traditional Mapuche dishes consumed on this day. Most consist of wheat or seeds.)

(The backdrop made for the acto. There is always a backdrop like this at our assemblies.)

(The director and one of the PE teachers playing a Mapuche game similar to field hockey.)

(The director and a Mapuche woman from the community who came to celebrate.)

(A dance tribute choreographed in similar style to traditional Mapuche dances.)

(A musical tribute to honor the pride and struggles of the Mapuche people...I think it's a Violeta Parra song.)

An epic poem about the Mapuche.

My host mom informed me that there is a famous epic poem about the enduring battle between the Mapuche and the Spanish conquistadors written by a Spaniard. She says it's a powerful work worth reading. It is called 'La Araucana' by Alonso de Ercilla. 

Additional Resources:

Here is a list of links for anyone interested in reading more about the Mapuche people.

http://www.mapuche.nl/english/mapuche.htm

http://eatingchile.blogspot.com/2011/01/mapuche-wheat.html

http://www.southamerica.cl/Chile/Mapuche.htm

http://www.interpatagonia.com/mapuche/index_i.html